With my book fresh out on the market (and doing quite well, btw, according to the publisher. Thank you ALL who have ordered one. Your support and enthusiasm is overwhelming!!) I have learned of a little upset in the practicality of a few of the projects. This is a bit frustrating to both me and the publisher who has published quite a few books out there using this same process/product which is no longer readily accessible. I made extra effort to keep the supplies and materials used readily accessible to all for ease of working and project play.
So, here's the scoop. In my book I show you how to etch images/words onto meta (brass, nickel-silver, copper, etc) with a solution called "PCB Etchant" or "Ferric Chloride" (It's scientific name). It is produced for those making Printed Circuit Boards (PBC) and for years has been readily accessible at any Radio Shack for about $4.50. Suddenly (I know you love that word, Nina) :) Radio Shack doesn't carry it any more with no clear explanation as to why. I've talked to the corporate office and am getting little information. I'll be connecting with them again, that's for dang sure. It is available through Rio Grande (on this page) and, of course there are a few listed on ebay . Be aware that a haz mat shipping charge will apply and varies by company/shipper.
There is another alternative that works just as well - faster even - but it's important that you use caution with this method. (I'm one to not wear gloves or masks or goggles and will consider holding my breath a safety precaution - please don't bug me about this...I'm making changes. I know I need to be safer. But when using products such as muriatic acid, I'm more careful. The fumes are nasty.)
"Do what you oughta, add acid to water!" (I will repeat this and repeat this so's to make sure you don't forget it.) :)
One alternative is a muriatic acid/hydrogen peroxide solution. ONE part acid to TWO parts peroxide. (3-18 update: I'm so embarassed....I originally had the ratio written wrong here. I DID say "two parts acid and one part peroxide". A kind reader wrote and asked why her's didn't work after 7!!! hours. So, for those of you who have your arms in the air and stones ready for pitching my way, have pity on a middle aged, mother-of-two, hormonal lady).
Always add acid to "water" (any liquid other than acid, which, in this case is peroxide) . Remember the addage "Do what you oughta, add acid to water". It kind a rhymes so don't forget it! This solution etches MUCH faster than the ferric chloride. Two minutes in this solution will do what takes two HOURS in the ferric chloride solution. A little tiny bit goes a long way. I'll make up some comparison samples at some point here along with any other findings I come across.
"Do what you oughta, add acid to water!"
The peroxide used is regular drug store 3% which sells for about a buck a bottle. Muriatic acid is sold by the gallon at ANY hardware store for about $5. It's often used in swimming pools and is also sold for cleaning (i.e. acid etching) concrete. It's intense stuff in terms of fumes and, like any acid, gloves should be worn. Mix it up outside if at all possible. To neutralize the peroxide/acid solution, good ol' baking soda is the best. Make a small batch of water/soda solution and have it on hand to drop your metal piece in right after you remove it from the etching bath. Go a step further and use a toothbrush and straight soda to scrub the piece with. Let's hear it for sodium bicarbonate! What other products can be used in cake, housecleaning and acid neutralization! I occasionally brush my teeth with a wet toothbrush dipped in the powder- leaves the sweetest taste in my mouth! A workhorse of an element, I tell you!! :)
"Do what you oughta, add acid to water!" Got it? Is it burned in your brain yet? :)
According to the bottle of muriatic acid I have on hand, disposal is dilution with water and muriatic acid "before being poured in a sewer". That's what the bottle says. Here's the science of why it works:
Decomposition
Reaction of sodium bicarbonate and an acid:
- NaHCO3 + HCl → NaCl + H2CO3
This then decomposes into carbon dioxide and water:
Not so scary when viewed this way, eh?
Anyway, another option - because you are probably only going to be using a few teaspoons of this mix at a time - is to neutralize it with soda and then absorb it all up with paper towels. Let them dry outside and throw in the garbage. I live in a rural area with lots of dirt roads and not near a river or stream. I neutralize it and dump it in the driveway, but I only etch once every few months. For those of you in apartment buildings, this might not be a possibility for you so I'm still looking into more disposal options so I'll keep you posted. My dad has used it many times and says that all the cement guys (genius in their respective trades but not scientists) all neutralize it with a soda water (baking soda) and dilute it with thorough, long rinses with the hose -- Into the flower beds surrounding, say, an existing sidewalk. They do wear masks and gloves as a safety precaution if the have any sense.
Whooda thunk that in the year-ish it took for this book to come out, that the ferric chloride would be pulled from the market!?!?! In the end, the fact of the matter is that darn near all the projects in the book can be done without the etching and I''m hoping that there is enough information in it that you will all find plenty to play with still.






I thought I was the only one having trouble with Radio Shack and getting the PCB soultion. After a lot of searching I finally found a place on the internet that carries it----Minute Man Electronics. i hope this helps!
Posted by: dena | March 14, 2008 at 11:15 AM
My book just arrived today. I am so excited! I took a quick look through as soon as I got it. It looks fantastic! I can see so many techniques I want to get at already. Tonight I will linger over it, and read it front to back. Thank you for this treasure.
Posted by: Diana | March 14, 2008 at 08:21 PM
Thank God I still have a bottle here. They are still selling it in Australia for all those Aussies at Dick Smith.
Jen
Posted by: Jen Crossley | March 14, 2008 at 08:40 PM
Thanks Stephanie and Jen. Stephanie for such a wonderful book, mine arrived yesterday, it looks fabulous, I'm looking forward to making those bezels.
Thanks Jen for telling me about the book in the first place and the Dick Smith info.
Posted by: robruhn | March 15, 2008 at 02:49 AM
I was having trouble with the PCB solution from Radio Shack etching copper or brass in the first place (I think is was old when I bought it!), so I am glad to learn of an alternative etching solution! Thanks, Stephanie, for the post!
Jean
Posted by: Jean Van Brederode | March 15, 2008 at 08:18 AM
try the site onlinesciencemal.com
for powdered ferric nitrate and chloride. this company sells small quantities (perfect for those of us who are experimenting) of these chemicals. the shipping is also reasonable. i searched high and low for cost effective means of finding these products and this company was the best source for these chemicals.i did not want to buy the
ready made form of these by mail because i hate paying shipping for things that are 99% water.
Posted by: posypusher | March 15, 2008 at 01:03 PM
ooops thats onlinesciencemall.com
Posted by: posypusher | March 15, 2008 at 01:05 PM
Our local Radio Shack people told us that it's an ingredient in drug manufacturing so they yanked it from their shelves exactly one week before I was there to buy it (last Saturday). Talk about being a day late and a dollar short -- then I thought how YOU must feel, poor Stephanie, after putting this wonderful book out! Yes, the technique has been shown in other books, but somehow their projects didn't motivate me to try it like yours did! I just LOVE your book, the story within the story, the evoked world of the dig -- so much more than just another jewelry project book! Congratulations!!
Posted by: jane | March 18, 2008 at 07:23 AM
Our local Radio Shack people told us that it's an ingredient in drug manufacturing so they yanked it from their shelves exactly one week before I was there to buy it (last Saturday). Talk about being a day late and a dollar short -- then I thought how YOU must feel, poor Stephanie, after putting this wonderful book out! Yes, the technique has been shown in other books, but somehow their projects didn't motivate me to try it like yours did! I just LOVE your book, the story within the story, the evoked world of the dig -- so much more than just another jewelry project book! Congratulations!!
Posted by: jane | March 18, 2008 at 07:24 AM
I tried the muriatic acid/hydrogen peroxide (2:1) bath today on both a clean piece of copper & a clean piece of brass stamped with black Staz-on ink. They were in the solution for about seven hours & only lightly etched the images onto the metal. I followed the directions in your explanation exactly. Any suggestions? Thanks!!!
Jean
Posted by: Jean Van Brederode | March 19, 2008 at 06:40 PM
I ran into the same trouble a few months ago with Radio Shack. I ended up getting Ferric Cloride at an electronics supply store. The kind of store where you can get circuit board supplies and capacitors and stuff...not stereo equipment or remote control cars. Dumb Radio Shack! :)
Posted by: Jennifer | March 21, 2008 at 10:57 PM
hi stephanie..i bought the only book available here locally and have read it from cover to cover (twice)It is one of the best mixed media/jewelry/art/how to books ever, i loved the "archeological journey" and have already purchased new tool/toys to try out, can't wait to start up the fire..our radio shack also had pulled the etching solution..In the meantime i found the same substitute online and couldn't wait to try it, only thing is i assumed (bad bad) it would take the same amount of time, long story short..i ended up with very funny little grayish pieces that were nearly eaten up by the acid! the learning process goes on..after trying out the basic techniques i have since advanced to the guardian cuff and all is going well so far, i am getting carried away finding new things to cast!thanks a million for sharing with all of us, i love your style and sense of adventure, zanne
Posted by: zanne | April 02, 2008 at 09:48 PM
Hi, I am writing in response to the use of PBS Etchant Solution. I read a comment online doing research on this, and 2 people said that it was very slow to work and not worth it. Can you tell me the pluses of working with this? Obviously, you endorse it. I am wanting to do some etching on copper for jewelry. In the Kansas City area, Radio Shack still sells it, but is $9.99 a bottle.
thanks for your help!
Posted by: brenda | May 05, 2008 at 07:25 PM
I have just managed to get hold of a copy of your book and am keen to try the metal etching - however, I am VERY wary of playing around with crazy chemicals (especially as I have small children) - and I don't know where to strat to look for the right materials here in the UK.
If any Brits out there have already tried it and can reassure me / give me a few pointers, that would be wonderful (you can find my email address on my blog profile)
thank you
Posted by: Flo | August 26, 2008 at 08:11 AM
I think its great that you suggest your readers use Cupric Chloride etching solution as an alternative to Ferric Chloride. If properly maintained its much better for the environment. If you read up a bit you'll find that unlike ferric chloride it can be regenerated and re-used over and over. Here's a link I think your readers might benefit from: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html
The site is more aimed at people wanting to make circuit boards, but it has everything you could want to know about dealing with CuCl safely.
Posted by: Bryan | August 13, 2010 at 12:06 AM